When I awoke and saw the clouds, I was convinced that skipping the Dempster Highway was the best decision for this trip. I pulled out at 7:00 and headed back into Dawson City. By now I had decided not to spend anymore time here as I had seen the historical centers and was not interested in the touristy downtown things this trip. So... I headed for the ferry that takes you across the Yukon river and onto the "Top of the World" highway. This Highway links Dawson City with the Taylor Highway on the Alaska side and completes a 180 mile link to Tok, Alaska, that is mostly winding gravel roads through the mountains. Narrow roads that weave around through the mountain tops (thus the name "Top of the World") with sheer drops off the sides making for some real "white knuckle" driving in spots. But everyone takes this drive, and tour buses go over the route (although led by a pickup with a big sign saying something like "look out! here we come!). So anyone can do it successfully by just driving slow and being cautious.
This was yet the most spectacular scenery I have seen in Alaska (seems like I am saying that a lot) and should be a definite part of anyone's Alaska adventure. Leaving the ferry at the Yukon River, I was the only one on the road at this time, and seemed to climb endlessly up into the mountains. Not long into the trip I saw a huge black bear on the road, but as I grabbed for the camera and slowed down, it reared back and looked at my approach and then ran into the woods. I have noticed that the "more mature" animals seem to be more difficult to get close to for pictures... plus traveling with a digital camera requires them to sit and pose for too long while the camera is warming up. I noticed many other travelers using digital video cameras with zoom lens and being quite successful. Of course it helps to have a co-pilot also, as driving with one hand and setting the camera up with the other, while trying to not drop off the road is quite a juggling act.
Over the period of the trip I also saw a huge female moose appear right in front of me on the road. It had a dark spot on its right rear quarter that was distinctive. The animal was much larger than any I had seen (which were probably young ones) and I thought as it stood there I had a great shot for sure, but as soon as I said "smile", it galloped up the side of the hill and was hid by the trees.. but what a magnificent animal. I have yet to see a grown bull moose in the wild. Later on the trip I also saw a porcupine walking along the edge of the road and stopped but seeing it go into its defensive position, decided against trying to get a shot of it. Anyway, it was a good day for "critter" sightings on "top of the world".
Magnificent views of rivers and mountains down through the clouds prevailed throughout the trip. I attempted a number of pictures but you cannot duplicate on any kind of film what it is like just being in a place like this. Every turn seemed to bring something better. After about two hours I reached the US customs entry checkpoint. Standard questions... booze, guns, tobacco, women (oops, not really I just threw that one in). My standard answer was bottle of wine and a shotgun in the back, don't chew, and traveling alone. I must look honest and 'fessing up to something seems to satisfy them so they let me go. I was hoping that sometime I could show them how fast I could setup my trailer...
Quite a bit further along the highway route I arrived at "Chicken" which is a small town and famous gas stop on the route. Very friendly people, so I gassed up, checked the air in my tires, and bought myself another hat. This one has been processed like tent canvas, so besides looking neat, it sheds water. Something I have found that I needed. Gas at Chicken was $1.69 a gallon. After being in Canada most of the last 12 days, I have had to adjust to US speeds and prices again.
I arrived at Tok, Alaska, shortly after noon... stopped in the information center and spent some time deciding what to do next. I checked my campground book and maps, and decided on this campground which was "Good Sam" and had a modem connection, and is near the intersection of the Glenn Highway and the road to Valdez. I plan to stay here two nights and make a day trip down to Valdez (about 100 miles) tomorrow with the car. Then the next day I will head for Anchorage and then down to Homer where I will stay a day or so. For those trying to track me on a map, you may be figuring out that I have reversed my route and am going the Southern route first, working my way up to Fairbanks last.
When you come to Alaska, it is good to be flexible... it is amazing how many people I am running into at these obscure campgrounds that I met someplace down the road. The person who checked into this campground when I did was a "neighbor" in the campground in Whitehorse. Everyone knows that I am the one with the funny looking A-frame camper. This campground is well hidden, a half mile back into the woods right on a rushing stream. All sites are right on the stream. Lots of fisherman here. It is a very quiet, relaxing site with good facilities. But he charges $1 for 5 minutes connection with your modem, so I may not upload many pictures tonight.
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